The Perfect Rhythm: A Menu That Tells a Story

Published on 24 May 2025 at 16:20

 By. José Luis Ortiz

 In the heart of the capital, several floors above the bustle of Calle Alcalá, lies one of Madrid’s best-kept gastronomic secrets: La Terraza del Casino, the Michelin-starred restaurant led by chef Paco Roncero. It’s not just a place to eat; it’s a sensory journey that defies expectations, where creativity and technique join hands with panoramic views of Madrid.

Paco Roncero

 Accessing the restaurant is already part of the experience. After crossing the historic Casino de Madrid, the elevator leads to a bright, open space with a terrace that seems to float above the city. The minimalist and elegant décor plays with light and shadow, creating an almost theatrical atmosphere. But the real show is on the plates.

 

 Roncero’s tasting menu is an exercise in balance between innovation and respect for classic flavors. Dishes such as the deconstructed “fried egg” —with a liquid yolk encapsulated in a crispy membrane— or the artichoke risotto with black truffle demonstrate why this restaurant has maintained its Michelin star for years. Each creation is a surprise, presented with a narrative that the staff explains with passion, but without solemnity.

 

 One of the culminating moments comes with dessert, where pastry becomes art. The “chocolate tree,” an edible sculpture that unfolds before the diners, is as visually stunning as it is delicious.

 

 Unlike other fine dining restaurants, there is no rigidity here. The front-of-house team is warm, almost conspiratorial, and knows how to adapt to the rhythm of each table. If the weather allows, the terrace —with its sunset views— adds a magical touch. It’s the ideal place for a special occasion, but also for those who simply want to be surprised.

 

 La Terraza del Casino is not a conventional restaurant. It’s an experience that plays with the senses, from the first glance at Madrid’s skyline to the last bite. Its price aligns with its category, but the memory of the menu lingers long after dinner. For gastronomic adventurers, it’s a must.

 

 What sets La Terraza del Casino apart from other gastronomic experiences is its ability to dose emotions. The tasting menu is not a succession of dishes, but a carefully orchestrated narrative where each creation serves as a prelude to the next. Intense moments, like the hearty Iberian pork cheek confit with tangy apple purée, give way to refreshing interludes such as the celebrated citrus sorbet with mountain herbs. This studied cadence allows the diner to enjoy more than ten creations without saturation, showcasing the team’s deep understanding of the rhythm of gastronomic delight.

 

 Behind each dish is a near-reverent respect for national products, though interpreted with international techniques. Almadraba bluefin tuna is presented with an oriental marinade, while seasonal mushrooms from northern Spain are enhanced with a clarified French-style consommé. This fusion of local roots and universal language turns every bite into a dialogue between tradition and avant-garde. The wine list, with a special focus on Riojas and Riberas, but with intelligent forays into European vineyards, completes this borderless journey from the privileged vantage point that is this restaurant.


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